Why does the volume sound different from what I expect?

The test tone is a synthesized sine wave, which can feel louder or quieter than real content at the same volume slider position because it carries energy at a single frequency rather than spread across a mix. Use it to check for silence, swapped channels, or distortion — not as an exact volume reference.

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Audio Output

Speaker & Headphone Test

This speaker test checks what comes out of your device, where every other audio tool here measures what goes in. This one checks what comes out: whether both channels work, whether left and right are the right way round, and which frequencies your speakers or headphones actually reproduce. Tones are generated in your browser — nothing is downloaded or streamed.

Step 1

Channel Test — Left, Right and Both

Play each channel in turn and confirm the sound comes from the side you expect. Swapped channels are surprisingly common and almost always a cable or balance-setting problem rather than a broken speaker.

Now playing:Nothing playing
Left channel:not tested
Right channel:not tested

Step 2

Frequency Range & Sweep

Set a specific frequency, or run a 12-second sweep from 60Hz to 16kHz. Note where the tone becomes inaudible — that tells you about both your hearing and your speakers' roll-off.

Frequency 440 Hz

Volume 30%

Sweep position:—

Start at a low volume. A sustained tone at high volume is uncomfortable and, at the top of the range, can be hard to judge safely.

Interpreting the Result

What Each Outcome Means

Nothing at all on either channelCheck the volume and, more often, the output device selection. Systems frequently route audio to a disconnected monitor or a Bluetooth device left paired in another room.

One channel silentTest with different headphones to isolate whether it is the device or the port. A partially inserted plug is the most common cause and produces exactly this symptom.

Left and right reversedAlmost always a cable or adapter wired the wrong way round, or a balance setting inverted in your system sound settings. Not a speaker fault.

Sweep drops out earlyLosing the top of the range is normal — typical adult hearing declines above roughly 15kHz, and small speakers roll off at both ends. Losing the bottom is usually the speaker rather than you.

Buzzing or rattling at some frequenciesThis points at a physical problem: a loose driver, a resonating enclosure, or an object vibrating near the speaker. Note the frequency where it starts — it makes the cause much easier to find.

This is a guided self-report test, not an automated score — a browser has no way to verify what you actually heard, so the tone plays and you judge the result, the same way a hearing check works.

Reference

Frequency Sweep Ranges

Range	Frequency	What lives here
Bass	60 – 250 Hz	Low-end warmth; the first thing small speakers lose.
Midrange	250 Hz – 4 kHz	Where speech intelligibility lives — most speakers handle this well.
Treble	4 – 16 kHz	Air and sibilance; the first thing aging hearing loses.

The sweep runs this exact 60Hz–16kHz range over 12 seconds — losing the extreme top or bottom is common and often reflects your hearing or speaker size, not a fault.

Step-by-Step

How to Run the Test

Click "Both Channels" first to confirm basic output is working at all.
Click "Left" then "Right" separately and confirm sound comes from the correct side.
Run the frequency sweep and listen for where the tone fades, distorts, or where you hear buzzing or rattling.
Mark each result using the pass/fail buttons so you have a record to compare against next time.

Common Issues

Troubleshooting & Fixes

No sound at allCheck your OS's output device selection first — Windows: right-click the speaker icon in the taskbar; macOS: System Settings → Sound → Output. Audio is often silently routed to a disconnected or wrong device.

Browser shows no audio permission promptPlayback doesn't require permission the way microphone or camera access does — if you hear nothing, the issue is device routing or volume, not a blocked permission.

Bluetooth headphones sound different from wired onesBluetooth codecs vary in their frequency range and add latency — a real hardware difference, not a fault with this test.

Sound plays but is distorted throughoutLower the volume slider here first — the synthesized test tone at high volume can distort on speakers that would otherwise sound clean at normal call volumes.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I test if my speakers are working?

Press Both Channels below. If you hear a steady tone, your output device is working. If not, check the volume, confirm the correct output device is selected in your system sound settings, and make sure headphones are not plugged in while you expect speakers.

How do I check if my left and right speakers are swapped?

Play the left channel and confirm the sound comes from your left. Then do the same for the right. If they are reversed, your cable or connector is wired the wrong way round, or the balance setting is inverted in your system audio settings.

Why can I only hear sound from one side?

Either the balance control is set to one side, a headphone plug is not fully inserted, or one driver has failed. Test each channel separately here — if one side is silent at every frequency, the hardware is the likely cause.

What frequencies should I be able to hear?

Typical adult hearing runs to roughly 15–17kHz, declining with age, and most speakers roll off below about 60Hz. The sweep runs from 60Hz to 16kHz — losing the top end is normal and usually reflects your hearing or your speakers, not a fault.

Does this test work with Bluetooth headphones?

Yes, though Bluetooth adds latency and some codecs limit the frequency range. If a Bluetooth device sounds noticeably worse at the top of the sweep than wired headphones, that is the codec rather than the tone.